Fulani Kwottenai (Earrings)

 Gold Ear Ornaments (Kwottenai), 20th Century
Fulani people; Mali
Gold and yarn; 9 x 8 1/2 in.
97.13.1.1-.2
Gift of Bowers Museum Collector's Council Currently on exhibit in the Bowers's Anthony W. and Sharon D. Thompson Foyer
The Fulani emphasize their physical beauty and elaborate adornments are used to draw attention to their appearance which they take immense pride in. The amount of jewelry worn by a woman depends on her age, status and where she lives. Women regularly decorate themselves in gold, silver and amber. They tattoo, wear their hair in ornately sculpted styles, and even walk in a manner which accentuates their bodies’ movements. These embellishments to the body are seen on all occasions, even during regular shopping. In Mali, gold earrings called kwottenai are part of a Fulani woman’s ensemble that are impossible to miss. They are made of pounded gold and wrapped with vibrant red yarn and worn through both pierced earlobes. Often, as seen in those pictured here, they are engraved with design. Over time gold is added to the earrings increasing their size and value; the increase signifies the individual’s and family’s accumulated wealth. Each earring can weigh more than half of a pound and additional support, usually in the form of a clip or strap, is sometimes used to alleviate strain and possible tearing of the earlobe. A woman usually acquires her kwottenai on two occasions, at her marriage as a gift from her husband or when her mother dies. Imitation kwottenai made of painted gold and red clay or wrapped red and gold silk threads are worn by those who can’t afford the scarce and costly metal. The Fulani people were traditionally nomadic herding people whose origins are believed to be near Senegal. Their great migrations over lands across West Africa began many centuries ago. Although many Fulani have retained their nomadic herding way of life, many have settled down and have adopted sedentary lifestyles as farmers and more recently have populated urban centers. Today the Fulani live in most West African countries, covering an area larger than the continental United States.
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